Give Me Liberty

Give Me Liberty. Milan, Italy. April 2016. 

Milan, Italy. April 2016.

Hidden in Milan near Porta Venezia is an enclave of art nouveau (aka liberty style) buildings. One of the most notable examples is pictured here, the turn of the century palazzo Casa Galimberti. The exterior features a whimsical façade of feminine and masculine figures, curved wrought iron, a floral motif, and ceramic tiling. The nouveau exterior of Casa Galimberti actually stretches beyond this panel and wraps around the entire 170 meters of the palazzo. The building and the exterior were both designed and executed by architect Giovanni Battista Bossi between 1903-1906. While the city is known for it's flashier architecturural marvels like Boeri's Bosco Verticale, Pelli's Unicredito Tower, and the Galleria, this section of Milan has the air of cities like Brussels, Paris, Glasgow, and Barcelona, where Art Nouveau is much more common. 

Secret Garden

Secret Garden. Milan, Italy. May 2015. 

The courtyard pictured here is actually no secret. This patio and garden is part of Corso Como 10, a space that may actually be one of the most highly trafficked in Milan. I refer to this as a "secret garden" because it is a prime example of the beauty that hides behind many closed doors here in Milan. Many may disagree with me, but judging solely based on exteriors, buildings in this city can feel stoic and cold. However, if given the chance to venture beyond the closed doors, you may discover beautiful secret gardens. 

Glass Ceiling

Glass Ceiling. Milan, Italy. May 2015.

Named after Italy's first king, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II connects two of Milan's most famous landmarks, Teatro Alla Scala and The Duomo. Construction was completed in 1877 and it is officially the world's oldest shopping mall. The cast iron and glass ceiling roof was one of the first of it's kind (along with a few others like Galerie du Roi (Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert) in Brussels and Galleria Umberto I in Naples), however the dimensions of this ceiling and arcade were much larger than any of the predecessors. The galleria was an international effort in terms of design and construction, especially when it came to the gleaming roof—the ironwork was produced and installed by the French craftsman Henry Joret and the glass plates were also manufactured in France. In a strange and tragic twist, the architect behind the galleria, Giuseppe Mengoni, passed away the day before the galleria was to be inaugurated after falling from the roof while inspecting the final decorative details. 

Mengoni's vision stands as one of the busiest and most photographed places in Milan. It is a beautiful landmark and during the World's Fair in 2015, the U.S. Pavilion in partnership with the James Beard Foundation created a fine dining restaurant from this space on the top floor of the arcade and this is where I captured this shot.

L.O.V.E.

L.O.V.E. Milan, Italy. May 2015.

Milan has a sense of humor. This is one of the more fascinating sculptures in the city that one should not miss. Located in the middle of Piazza Affari, it is hidden in the business district of the city. The sculpture was created in 2010 by Maurizio Cattelan, placed in the piazza, and was only supposed to stay in the square for a couple of weeks, yet here it stands seven years later. The Milanese government decided to keep it up indefinitely. So what is Cattelan's sculpture flipping off? Well, that's the best part; the hand is placed right in front of the "Borsa" a.k.a. Italian stock exchange. While Cattelan has never explicitly said what the message of his work is, it is safe to assume that it is a big "f*ck you" bankers. It is widely accepted to be a harsh commentary on the European economic crisis that plagued Europe in 2008 and hit Italy especially hard. If the gesture itself and the placement are not explicit enough, Cattelan titled his piece L.O.V.E., an acronym for Libertà, Odio, Vendetta, Eternità (Freedom, Hate, Vengeance, Eternity). Irony at its best.

Secret Library

Secret Library. Milan, Italy. March 2016.

The Novacento View

The Novacento View. Milan, Italy. November 2015.

This room in the Museo del Novacento is my favorite view overlooking Piazza del Duomo. Museo del Novacento has a fantastic collection of 20th century Italian art, however I would often visit just for this view (and the bar that also overlooks the piazza). Pictured here is my friend Kata, a statuesque beauty that I worked with at Expo. When we visited Novacento together, we had just wrapped up a phenomenal Expo experience and were candidly a bit nostalgic and aimless. We had a large void to fill now that Expo had run its course and we were both plagued with the nagging "what next?" question. Kata and I decided to take a few hours to get out of our heads and enjoy our newly acquired free time by going to Novacento to take in this view. We had been so busy working that we hardly ever saw the Duomo or piazza during the day. This was a healthy change of pace and the best part of it was that we were able to go during off-peak hours and have the whole view to ourselves. 

Like Diamonds in the Sky

Like Diamonds in the Sky. Milan, Italy. April 2016.

My favorite time of the year in Milan is during Milan Design Week commonly referred to as "Salone del Mobile." It is the largest international design/furniture fair and draws and an incredible amount of attention and talent to the city. It happens every April, perfectly timed for when the weather finally turns. While there is plenty to see at the actual fairground where Salone del Mobile is held, the best part is that exhibitions permeate throughout the entire city. Designers and brands show outside of the fairground and those installations are known as Fuorisalone (outside Salone).

For Fuori Salone 2016, Citizen created this amazing installation, "time is TIME," in Superstudio Più. Under the creative direction of Tsuyoshi Tane, Citizen created a galaxy where the silver stars are 120,000 main plates suspended in the air with wire. It was 800 square feet of breathtaking bling. The idea behind this design was that visitors would witness time standing still where. This was one of my favorite installations, it was inspired and beautiful both when inspected closely or taken in in its entirety. The experience stuck with me long after we visited and obviously still does.

Pop, Pop!

Pop, Pop! Milan, Italy. February 2016. 

The Pasticceria Marchesi on Via Montenapoleone is probably one of my favorite "treat yo'self" places in Milan. It is not pocketbook friendly at all, but the service is top notch and the Roberto Baciocchi designed space is a beautiful, whimsical place to visit. Pasticceria Marchesi is one of the oldest and most notable pastry brands in Milan. Recently bought by the Prada group, they decided to put a new spin on an old name. The original Pasticceria Marchesi is off of Corso Magenta and this renovated version has elements of that classic location blended with modern elements. The cherry wood, curved glass displays, glass jars, and mirror cabinets are throwbacks to the old, with the pops of color, jacquard silk wallpaper, velvet interior, and sleek lighting make it feel more modern like something out of a film set. 

Everything here is made fresh daily and here you can see all sorts of other forms of sugar sold by the kilo. It's hard to get this photo without photobombing it because you are fighting the crowds, the mirrored wall, and waiting for a pause in the foot traffic to get one still frame. Pardon the cameo, but now you can see that I really don't travel anywhere without my camera.

Cool House

Cool House. Milan, Italy. May 2015.  

One is the Loneliest Number. Milan, Italy. May 2015.

Rem Koolhaas was the lead architect behind Fondazione Prada in Milan, and it is incredibly fitting because it is indeed one very "Cool House." Koolhaas and his firm OMA were tasked with transforming this former distillery south of city center into a mega complex for the Prada family's extensive collection. OMA is a favorite of Prada; they collaborate on catwalks and shopfronts for the brand. In my opinion, Fondazione Prada is the best testament to their collaborative relationship. 

OMA converted seven standing buildings and created three news ones that matched the industrial style of the distillery. The Fondazione Prada was established in the 90s to be a cultural hub of cinema and art and the design of the complex honors that. It is minimal, spacious, and sleek, allowing the art and exhibitions to take center stage. However, with this being said, one of the most beautiful aspects of the foundation is part of the building itself; its 24-karat gold leaf covered tower. You can see a glimpse of the gold base in the top photo. 

Fondazione Prada has brought new life to a largely ignored neighborhood of Milan and I look forward to the day I get to visit it again and see the changes it brings to the surrounding area. 

The Taller the Spires, the Closer to God

The Taller the Spires, the Closer to God. Milan, Italy. May 2015.

Life in Milan centers around the Duomo di Milano. It is a magnificent gothic structure of flying buttresses and spires that took nearly 600 years to complete. It is hard to fathom, but all the marble for the duomo originates from one quarry, the Candoglia Quarry, located near Lago Maggiore about 100km north of Milan. This exclusive agreement has been in place for centuries and it means that marble mined from this quarry can only be used to restore the Duomo di Milano and no other project. This makes the cathedral something truly special.

As you can imagine, transporting this much marble in the 1300s was a massive endeavor and at this time Milan had navigli or canals (believed to be designed by da Vinci) snaking through the city that helped bring these massive blocks all the way down south through a system of locks.

The rooftop of the duomo is open to the public and from there you can truly appreciate the craftsmanship and architecture of the cathedral. Apparently there are more statues on the duomo than any other structure in the world.

The duomo is such a staple of daily life in Milan and is easily taken for granted, that is why photos like this remind me of how good I had it!

Ciao Bello

Ciao Bello. Milan, Italy. July 2015. 

One of the benefits of living in Milan is being in the middle of high fashion. The same day Expo Milano 2015 opened, so did Armani/Silos, a fashion museum dedicated to creations by Giorgio Armani. When I visited last year, Armani/Silos was hosting a retrospective exhibition displaying 40 years of Armani's works over 4,500 square meters of industrial space designed by Pritzker Prize winning architect Tadao Ando. The building was actually a silo for grain in the 1950s and is now home to roughly 600 dresses and 200 accessories. Walking through the corridors, you have to fight every impulse to touch and feel everything, although, on second thought, it would be a good way of catching the attention and starting a mild flirtation with one of the black-suited models/docents.

Take a Ride With Me

Take a Ride With Me. Milan, Italy. January 2016. 

I spotted this nice ride parked along Corso Magenta in Milano and I had to stop and shoot it. In a city full of Fiats, Alfa Romeos, Peugeots, Opels, Renaults, and motor bikes, it is a rarity to see beauty like this; a classic car not constructed for narrow roads and tiny parking spots. It was refreshing to see this slick guy situated stoically by itself, unobstructed by any small cars nearby. King of the road. Now if I had only learned something from watching "Gone in 60 Seconds"...