Elements of a Venetian dream, gondolas, gondoliers, and canals.
Photography
Inside the Rib Cage Lies a Resilient Heart
Oculus, this distinctively Calatrava creation, is an intriguing addition to downtown NYC. Was it over-budget and is it unconventional? Absolutely. However if there is one American city that can showcase a piece of non-conformist architecture, it is New York. I love the glean of the white marble, the natural light that pours in through the spine of the rib cage, and the grandeur of the empty space. The steel ribs give me the feeling of walking through a modern day cloister and, to me, it is a fitting sentiment for this particular site.
It is a busy transit hub, but catching it in a quiet moment between trains allows you to appreciate the size, scale, and location of the project. I found the second floor to be the best place for some contemplation and observation. While many would say it does not fit in with the skyline, I would argue that inside this rib cage lies the resilient heart of the city; commuters and observers give Oculus breath and life and they are the beating heart of New York.
Ciao Bello
One of the benefits of living in Milan is being in the middle of high fashion. The same day Expo Milano 2015 opened, so did Armani/Silos, a fashion museum dedicated to creations by Giorgio Armani. When I visited last year, Armani/Silos was hosting a retrospective exhibition displaying 40 years of Armani's works over 4,500 square meters of industrial space designed by Pritzker Prize winning architect Tadao Ando. The building was actually a silo for grain in the 1950s and is now home to roughly 600 dresses and 200 accessories. Walking through the corridors, you have to fight every impulse to touch and feel everything, although, on second thought, it would be a good way of catching the attention and starting a mild flirtation with one of the black-suited models/docents.
Let There Be Light
This was my first step into a Lutheran Church and man was it a memorable one. When my friend and I visited Grundtvig's Kirke in Copenhagen, I expected significant foot traffic because it is one of the most recognizable churches in the city, however we walked into complete silence and this stunning, light-filled nave. Grundtvig's Kirke is known for it's Expressionist exterior and Gothic-inspired interior. While the exterior reminds me of a crazy space ship straight out of Krypton the interior is beautiful in its silence and simplicity.
Unfinished Business
One of my favorite stops in Portugal was the small town of Batalha, home of the Batalha Monastery aka Monastery of the Battle. The Batalha Monastery was constructed as a tribute to the Portugese and English victory over the Crown of Castile (Spain) in a battle that prevented the Castilians from claiming the Portugese throne in 1385. This photo captures my favorite part of the monastery - the Unfinished Chapels. These incomplete open air chapels are a beautiful reminder that the monastery has remained unfinished for over 500 years. Construction began on the building in 1386 and took over 100 years to "complete." Plans to finish the chapels were abandoned when resources were reallocated to build the Jeronimos Monastery in Lisbon.
I did not fully grasp Manueline-style architecture until I saw Royal Cloisters, Unfinished Chapels, and other spaces within the monastery. The beautiful lacework carved into the exterior and pillars of the chapel with ornamental angels, ropes, branches, and leaves are all signatures of the Manueline style. Today, the octogonal rotunda and seven chapels serve as reminders of the late-Gothic Portugese style.....as well as a homey refuge for birds.
Downward Spiral
Copenhagen is an architecturally rich city; knowing this I took the time to research and compile a shortlist of buildings to visit. On the top of my list was this iconic building on the waterfront. Aptly named Gemini, this modern building was converted from neighboring seed silos in the early 2000s. From an aerial view, the two silos look like a figure eight and the interior is this incredibly strange looking space ship. Designed by Dutch based architectural firm MVRDV, the most surprising part of the plan is that the living spaces are actually clipped on to the outside of the silos.
In minimalist fashion, their is no obvious entrance into the building. I waited until a resident walked out of a silo and convinced her to let me in to take videos and photos. I could not get enough of the black and white interior. I must have become hypnotized by the spirals because I took photos from every possible curve and lost track of time; it was hard for me to leave. I was just waiting for someone to report me and chase me out, however I think folks are used to having hypnotized strangers wander aimlessly in their atrium.
Take a Ride With Me
I spotted this nice ride parked along Corso Magenta in Milano and I had to stop and shoot it. In a city full of Fiats, Alfa Romeos, Peugeots, Opels, Renaults, and motor bikes, it is a rarity to see beauty like this; a classic car not constructed for narrow roads and tiny parking spots. It was refreshing to see this slick guy situated stoically by itself, unobstructed by any small cars nearby. King of the road. Now if I had only learned something from watching "Gone in 60 Seconds"...
Wave After Wave
This is the controversial, yet beautifully designed MUDEC (Museo Della Culture). I visited the museum for an exhibition in February and the space is constructed unlike any art space I have seen before. These wavey walls are just one distinct characteristic that makes the MUDEC a worthwhile building to pay the admission price for. The museum complex was a former factory and is located in Via Tortona, the arts district of Milan.
Not Your Typical Venetian View
When you picture Venice, what do you see? I'm guessing canals, gondolas, narrow streets, grand palazzi, and romance, however do you ever wonder about "residential" areas in this magical place?
Over the weekend I stayed in a beautiful flat in Giudecca, one of the islands of Venice. Giudecca is a short vaporetto ride away from all the frenetic action of Piazza San Marco, just distant enough away to feel residential. Unfortunately (or fortunately), this trip coincided with acqua alta and so the rain was rather unforgiving. Luckily, I was able to do a cursory exploration of this island for an hour when the rain let up. I enjoyed walking around this atypical side of Venice. There are still plenty of canals to remind you that you are indeed in Venice, however there are more campielli (small squares) surrounded by two or three level homes where you will find a more tranquil scene; residents leaning out of their windows smoking and observing kids kicking a football around, people taking their dogs out for a walk etc. In this area, there are little to no crowds; the only people I saw were nonnas with their grocery carts, a man working on his boat, kids playing in the campiello, dog walkers, and a father-daughter returning from church. It was quiet, calm, and lovely. Of course this was probably also due to the impending rain, but I think things are generally more calm here.
I saw this home in a campiello and I thought it was really beautiful. The plant life is lush and a wonderful contrast against the building. I took plenty of photos of narrow streets and canals on this trip as I usually do (I can't help myself!), but this might be the most unique shot of the bunch because very few people would guess it is from Venice, the city of water.
That Was a Doozy
When friends visit Milan and ask for restaurant recommendations, Carlo e Camilla in Segheria is at the top of my list. Located in an up-and-coming neighborhood in the city, Carlo e Camilla is a standout in atmosphere, design, architecture, and menu. The building is an old saw mill repurposed into a bar and open space restaurant with communal seating. High ceilings give the place a lofty and spacious feel, and from the wooden beams hang marvelous crystal chandeliers that contrast nicely against the bare cement walls. It is elegant and edgy while adhering to some classic Italian elements i.e. dishes are served on all different types of patterned Richard Ginori china (see my previous post on Richard Ginori).
On this particular evening, friends from Washington, D.C., were visiting and so naturally I made a reservation at Carlo e Camilla. While we were dining we observed a large group having a rowdy celebration on a "school night." As the party was leaving, service quickly cleared all the wine bottles so I was unable to snap this image with all the bottles strewn along the table. I did manage to capture just a small portion of the party's table with other evidence from their eventful evening. So many glasses, so few hours in the night.
OG Instagram
A couple of weeks ago, I was walking the streets in Florence and came across this beautiful vintage "fotoautomatica" booth on the corner of Via Dell'Agnolo and Via Giuseppe Verdi. Photo booths are a common find around the city particularly in train and metro stations, however this is one of the most charming ones I've seen. I particularly liked the teal interior wall set against the monochrome background.
If you are wondering if it is still in working order, yes it is. When I took this photo, an Australian couple was waiting for their "instagram" to be printed.
Teach Us How to Kiss Like This
Yesterday I went to the Gallerie d'Italia in Piazza della Scala to see a beautiful collection of Italian painter Francesco Hayez's most famous works. This exhibition is particularly special because on display are the three versions of "Il Bacio" aka "The Kiss" side by side by side. The version in the middle was the first to be completed in 1859 and is a permanent piece housed just up the street at the Pinacoteca di Brera. The version on the left was completed in 1861 and the one on the right in 1867. Each have their subtle differences and symbolic interpretations, however what remains consistent in each version is the passion conveyed in the lover's kiss and Hayez's impeccable technique.
I loved the way that these guests were admiring the paintings. Looking at this picture, I cannot help but believe that they are all sharing the same thought—I want to be kissed just like this.